Swimming with Great White Trash

I write to you from an internet cafe in Hermanus (Hair-man-oos) South Africa. This place is beautiful, set along the southern coast on the Indian Ocean where the mountains meet the sea. The vistas are breath taking and so vast it's impossible to describe or capture on film. I've spent a good amount of time hiking the rocks along the beach and watching Southern Right Whales breach a few hundred yards of shore (OK meters, man this metric thing is a pain in the ass) .

Hermanus is famous for whale watching and cage diving with Great Whites in near by Gaansbai (don't ask me how to pronounce that one) . The purpose of my stop here was to fulfill a life long dream of diving with the top of the food chain himself the Great White Shark. My dream has been fulfilled and here's a picture and a video (I'm mouthing "WOW!")





After spending some time with these giant predators you realize that there is nothing vicious or frightening about them (Yeah, that's easy to say when your in a reinforced shark cage) they seem docile almost dopey, swimming around as to say ,"You through fish blood in the water? OK here I am what's up...oh a giant hunk of tuna...do-dee-do-dee-do" Kind of like if you were to ring the dinner bell. I would walk over sniffing the air saying ,"Hey is that pizza? awesome!" (those of you who know of my lactose intolerance know that sadly I can't eat pizza anymore)

Speaking of intolerance, the locals here are something else. The town of Hermanus is a resort type place with shops and restaurants geared for tourists.



However it's winter down here so I'm one of few non-locals around. The backpackers (or hostile as you may call it) I'm staying at has a bar which is a local jaunt. It's a working class blue collar type of place. And while the people have their charm, the place is rife with racism, you wouldn't believe some of the things that come out of these people's mouths! Last night I had a grime covered guy "Andy" who looks like Don Vito (Bam Margera's uncle...Google it if you aren't familiar) buy me a birthday drink at midnight (oh yeah it's my birthday) as he told me in his broken Afrikaans accent that he wants to move to the states, Mississippi so he can join the KKK. Ah yes we all have aspirations. So you'll understand that when I was asked, "Are you Jewish". I said "hell no!"

But there have been a few gems like Gail and Mark



They met and fell in love on the internet. She is from Tennessee and he is from South Africa. After realizing that CT was Cape Town and not Connecticut, Gail found Africa on the map (having never left Tennessee) and moved here 6 years ago. The two work at a travel/computer shop around the corner and have adopted me as their American compadre. I've spend quite a few pints talking with them at the end of the bar.

Understanding that I am a guest here, I maintain my manors and just nod as many spew their political and racist rhetoric. It's not my place, although as many of you like Sapienza know, I love arguing with morons. I do have to say that in spite of their ways, the locals have been very warm and welcoming, choosing to speak English rather than Afrikaans regardless of how bad their English is.

I don't want to paint the people of SA in a poor light, I am only referring to the group of locals who populate the bar in the place I'm staying at. To the contrary, the folks in Cape Town were very worldly and metropolitan. I met some great folks like Paul who is friends with my friend Iris. He reminds me a great deal of Jakes, my friend in Amsterdam.


He picked me up from the airport and hosted me in his apartment (flat) for 4 days. He not only opened his home to me, but he opened his life. He introduced me to his friends, took us to the Cape of Good Hope, Table Mountain and enabled me to live like a Cape Townian rather than a tourist. I was invited for a proper home cooked dinner at his friends house.

Paul is an American who's been living in Cape Town for the past 10 years and a very adventurous traveler. He's lived on almost every continent and over dinner on my last night in Cape Town he shared his amazing and horrific story of getting caught in the tsunami while staying on the beach in Thailand. Having been swept out to sea and having had his clothes ripped off and having lost friends during the ordeal, Paul has a very centered view of the event and himself. I give him tons of credit, while It makes for a sexy story "Hey I was in the tsunami" it is something I would never wish on anyone. He has been instrumental in helping me plan my trip, sharing his experiences and insights. Thanks again man, if you ever decide to return to the states you've got a place to crash.

I am having a great time on the road. Again the people are great, the scenery is awe inspiring and my soul is soaring. I am off to East London shortly to begin seeing what the local Afrikaans call "the real Africa" I believe that's the one that comes to mind when someone says Africa, with the lions and tribesmen and all. It's tough to load pictures from here but I should have complete albums up in the next week or so.

Til then here's a few

Ostriches at the Cape of Good Hope



Cape Town from the top of Table Mountain (elevation 1000 M)

Touchdown! and the fans go wild

OK sports fans the journey has begun, here's the recap. On Tuesday night I headed into NYC to catch Pearl Jam one last time before heading out. After what seemed like a sleepless night with only a weird drawn out jam session and conversation with Eddie Vetter to let me know I was dreaming, I headed to Newark and boarded my flight. Hung over with 2 hours of sleep, or jamming with Vetter under my belt, I sat in my seat and popped an Ambien for the first time. I figure if I land in Amsterdam at 8:30 local time, I can sleep the whole way and convince my body that it's been a whole night and negate the effects of jet lag. WRONG!! I now understand why the commercial recommends you have a full 8 hours to sleep. To my chagrin the pilot announced the flight time at 6 hours and 40 minutes, 30 seconds after I took the sucker.

So I landed in Amsterdam still a little loopy from the Ambien experiment and I took public transport to my buddy John Jakes' flat. I feel like I crammed a week long European vacation into 24 hours; did some walking around the city, ate some fries with mayo (Do you know what the call a quarterpounder with cheese at McDonald's there? Royale with Cheese.), we rented a boat and cruised the canals, went for a drink on top of a plush hotel with a view, caught the Russia v Spain "football" game at a bar with some rabid fans, hit a Turkish place for late night grub and I ended up passing out on an air mattress on the floor wasted just like the previous night after the Pearl Jam concert. Except this time I had no doubt I slept, it was one of those dreamless deep coma type of sleeps.

I haven't figured out the picture thing too well, but here's an attempt. Here's some pics from the canals.














So I woke up from my deep slumber in the morning and took the same public transportation in reverse back to the airport to hop a 9 hour flight to Cape Town (sans Ambien this time). My friend Iris set me up with her friend Paul who picked me up from the airport, took me to his flat to drop off my stuff. And like Jakes took me to the bar as my first stop. We went clubbing with a group of French ex-pats. After getting humiliated at a couple of games of foosball we hit the dance floor. The DJ was spinning the same songs I used to when I was 19. It was nostalgic and cheesy at the same time. The ugly American inner monologue in my head was laughing and saying, "Hey, in two years this white rapper named Eminem is going to come out and blow up the charts." And then, like the night before at Jakes' place...I crashed at Paul's, which brings me to right now.

I've been shot out of a cannon up to this point and now I am chilling. Paul is off playing paint ball, I just did not have it in me to crash at 2:30AM and wake up at 7:30AM to go shoot some Afrikaans with paint. I opted to sleep in, organize myself and write to you good folks. So here I am in Paul's computer room with his 2 really loud parrots (Hey shut up already!!!). I've been in Africa for about 15 hours and most of it has been in a bar. We're supposed to go surfing this afternoon with some of the French guys from last night. I'll be back shortly with my impressions on Cape Town. For now, I leave you with a view from Paul's balcony.

Crescendo

Oh..... my..... God

I can't believe I actually did it. AAAHHHHHHH HAAAAAAAAA HAA HA HA HA!!!

The storm before the calm

I hit the halfway point between leaving my job and leaving my life today. The past 2 weeks have been, have been...it's difficult to describe, kinda like catharsis meets "Holy Shit! I'm backpacking around the world!"

Did you ever have a moment in your life when you feel everything at the same time? There's the sadness of saying good-bye, the fear of what lies ahead. You've got the release and forgiveness thing going on coupled with reflection and introspection.

Then there's the thrill of pending adventure, the guilt of leaving friends and family, especially nephews who, aren't old enough to realize that you're leaving and won't recognize or remember you when you return.

Add to it the anxiety of getting every last thing buttoned up to sustain you out in the world as the clock ticks louder and louder while time runs out and everyone wants a few moments. Lastly, there's the overwhelming joy accompanied by dancing through your mother's house when you realize that you've broken orbit and you're free!!!!

So, here's a quick update. I...finally bought a camera, booked my trip to Hermanus to go shark diving on my birthday (July 3rd), figured out Skype, have all of the medical supplies I need, registered with the State Department so they know where I am, and set up communications and contingency plans just in case poop happens. I've got my absentee ballot, and I think I am almost ready to roll.

Thanks to all of you who've wished me well and shared kind words. I never would have anticipated the response I received. In closing, I want to share an interesting observation. Over the past 2-3 weeks I asked a bunch of people, "If you can wake up tomorrow and do anything you want, N...E....thing, what would it be?" Most responded by giving me a constraint that's preventing them from doing whatever "it" is, rather than answering the question I asked them. I found it interesting. I think it's an important question to ask yourself, people should ask it of themselves regularly. And they should answer it honestly, regardless of how long it takes to answer.
Next up Geronimo!

I've been expecting you

Hello world,

WELCOME TO MY BLOG! This is the first opportunity anyone has had to read my musings on my upcoming trip around the world. The seven post soliloquy below provides historic background, but here's the quick and dirty...

I'm leaving for Cape Town, South Africa on June 25th, following a 24hr lay over in Amsterdam I land in S. Africa on June 27th. I leave Africa for Delhi, India on Sept 7th and in mid-October I fly from Kathmandu, Nepal to Bangkok, Thailand. On January 16th I catch a flight home from Sydney, Australia via a 1 day stop in Hong Kong.

If you want the deets read on.

PS. Start from the beginning, it makes much more sense that way (click on the "older posts" link at the bottom of the page). Oh and pictures will be accompanying the posts shortly. I still haven't bought a camera...just start reading from the bottom, you'll see

Oh yeah, if you want to be notified when I add a new entry, add a comment to any entry with your email address. I won't post it, so your anonymity will be spared. I'll just add you to my distribution list then delete the comment containing your email address. I will post all other comments however. (unless they are disparaging and make me look foolish ((like I need your comments to accomplish that!))

Mama I'm coming home

Today I moved out of my Hoboken apartment and back in with my Mother in Old Bridge. Leaving Hoboken has been an odd experience. While I really enjoyed my time living there, I'm not sad to go. No bouts of nostalgia as I packed my stuff, no montage of "the good times" set to some crappy Celine Dion song running in my head. Nothing. Previous moves were different. Both my move away from New York to Texas and from Texas back were sad or bittersweet or something. Leaving Hoboken is matter of fact. Not sure what to make of it.

So I play this game in my head I call, The Tao of iPod. I turn on my iPod, set it to shuffle then play the first song listed alphabetically, in my case A.D.I.D.A.S. by Korn. As soon as the song starts, I forward to the next song. The idea is to see if the random song that plays, jives with the flow of what I'm experiencing (the setting, situation, my mood, etc). As I drove out of Hoboken tonight playing The Tao of iPod, Freebird by Skynard came up and I thought, " Yo iPod, you feelin' me man, you feelin' me"

Now for an update. So, we are just 58 days away; I moved out of my apartment, booked the flights, got some gear, got my shots, read my guide books and I am feeling...everything at the same time. I play the trip through my mind and imagine Rajastan, Indonesia and Africa and I want to go now. I also realize that I am going to the other side of the world; for 7 months by myself, away from my family and friends, to experience places where I am separated from the simple comforts I take for granted and where my language is not the native tongue (sans Australia) and with only a 50 L backpack and what ever fits in it. That's some scary shit, but exciting as hell too!

I've got to get in gear on a few items. I need to apply for visas, book the "Cage dive with Great Whites" trip in South Africa. and I need to resolve the hem-haw fest I'm having over buying a digital camera. Lastly I need to figure out Skype (Iris, hang tight I swear I'll sign up and learn how to use it this week. I look forward to our trans-Atlantic VOIP convo.)

That's all for now. I leave you with a felicitous quote (today's word of the day calender word):

"I find I'm so excited, I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head. I think it is the excitement only a free man can feel, a free man at the start of a long journey whose conclusion is uncertain." Morgan Freeman, The Shawshank Redemption.

The mountains win again...

So I spent last week in Denver and for the third time altitude proved to be my kryptonite. At 5,200 feet I felt light-headed, my breathing was labored and my lips blew up like Angelina Jolie's then peeled off. Last year I passed out in the airport the morning after my pal Buck took me to a Nuggets game then out for a drink or 8. A few years ago in Ecuador, I thought someone drugged me and that I was dying (Those of you who were present...Shhh!!!!) I am beginning to rethink the idea of Nepal. If Denver kicks my ass, Kathmandu might destroy it. Someone in Denver told me there are pills you can take before you leave. I think I may look into that when I go back in June for my anti-malarials.

Aside from the whole altitude sickness Colorado was really nice. I drove up to Ft. Collins to see an old friend from college. The view and the feeling were awesome, they pulled my mind 6 months forward onto my trip. If that wasn't enough to psych me up, I watched "Into the Wild" on the flight home.

I figure if Nepal is anything like I've read, I'll have to get there. Perhaps I'll win this one. T minus 2 months and counting... Next up I'm moving back home with my mother!!!!

More prep for my trip blah, blah, blah

Hello imaginary friends (remember I haven't published this blog yet so I am talking to nobody right now) For historical reference, I went to Kampy's wedding last night, awesome.

With my flights out of the way I've spent the last 2 weeks concentrating on gearing up. If you read 10 different guidebooks, you'll get 10 different opinions on how to outfit a backpacking trip around the planet. I'm taking a 4 day weekend to shop around, visit various camping and outdoor sports stores, and to jump start my fat toochas back into a good exercise regimen. I want to be in shape for potentially grueling conditions or just look good for the sexy traveling ladies that exist in my imagination (If reality is anything close, this blog is going to get much better in a few months : )


Shopping has been an experience the folks that are on shift at outdoors stores are interesting. I went to EMS (Eastern Mountain Sports) The woman working there had crazy eyes, kind of like that runaway bride who was in the news last year, you can see the whites all around her irises. She saw me coming from a mile away. It's amazing, my specific trip calls for the most expensive pair of boots and backpack they sell. What a coincidence! The she tried selling me her water purifier at a bargain price before she put it on ebay. I got her number, we are going out next weekend (just kidding)

So I've decided to go bare bones and travel very light. One of the main reasons for this trip is liberation, plus I think the Buddha said something about a truly happy man can fit all of his possessions on his back, or something like that. If I really need something I can likely find it along the way. Last I saw they sell clothes and supplies in Africa. I intend on using a climber's back pack, they are small and light, if I don't have the space, I can't over pack. It will keep my load light as well.

So here's the trip as it stands:

I will be in Africa until September 7th when I will fly out to Delhi India (stop over in Abu Dhabi,cool!) . I intend on spending a month in Rajastan/Golden Triangle area then going overland to Nepal. I'll fly from Nepal on October 15th to Bangkok Thailand then my next flight is booked for January 16th from Sydney to Newark. So what to do with 3 months between Thailand and Australia? Here are some thoughts. 1) Obviously the Great Barrier Reef is a lock. 2) I'm reading up on diving Indonesia, I think I may be interested in making my way by water through Indonesia and Malaysia to Australia diving some awesome places on the way. 3) I think I may also be interested in staying for a while and honing my surfing skills. I tore it up in Costa Rica on the breaks of Playa Hermosa, but I think I am ready to try waves bigger than 2 feet high : ) 4) Perhaps a home stay at a monastery? 5) Maybe teach English to Buddhist monks? 6) Bali? I'll be doing some more reading and posting on boards to learn more as the weeks go by.

It's official

I just booked my flight out of the country yesterday. Some good jockeying of rewards points and frequent flyer miles have earned me a flight from Newark to Cape Town on June 25th. Actually, I'll be flying to Amsterdam and stopping over for 24 hours. I'm planning on visiting Jaques in A-dam, perhaps a day of seeing some sights a decent dinner and a couch will materialize. Then I am off to Africa. I plan on spending a day or two in Cape Town to acclimate to the time difference and potential culture shock. From there I'm planning on hitting Hermanus for some cage diving with Great Whites and whale watching before I make my way to Johannesburg. Wow this thing is getting more and more real as the days go by. Now I am working on getting out of my apartment with my total security deposit.

The trip is getting closer...And Leon's getting Larger!

It has been a nutty few weeks, life is getting crazier and the reality is starting to set in as my trip transitions from an abstract concept to a more tangible form. I got my vaccinations today (Hep A, Typhoid, Yellow Fever, Polio and Japanese Encephalitis skipped the Rabies series) 2 sub-cutaneous in the left shoulder and 3 intra-muscular in the right shoulder. I feel like I can pitch 9 innings left handed. My right arm is dead.

Switching to a consumer driven health plan and increasing my contribution to my flex-spending account is paying-off as no plan pays for Yellow Fever and Japanese Encephalitis vaccines. It should do me well when it comes to the anti-malarials later. My goal now is to spend as much of my health benefits before I head out. Anyone need anything while I'm out? A dental cleaning? colonoscopy? anything?

So it's hashing out like this: I'll be skipping Europe and heading from NY to South Africa. I'm planning on the beginning of June. I have applied for a position volunteering for 5 weeks in a wildlife park tracking top-level predators for a conservation program (freakin cool huh). I know Israel will be in the itinerary but I still need to speak with my family and friends. I'd love to crash with them to experience the real deal. South East Asia will come afterward, I'm debating whether to stop in India, Nepal and the area en-route, but I’ll be in the region during monsoon season. I'll have to nail that down shortly. Thailand is looking like a good entry point. I'd like to visit Karoly (my college roommate) in South Korea and I can't imagine missing Japan. Eventually I'd like to work my way through Indonesia and Malaysia and end up in Australia. The Great Barrier Reef is not negotiable, it's been my dream since 3-4th grade. I am planning on meeting Andrea (a friend from grad school) down under for a serious diving expedition. In fact I'd like to dive, with Great Whites in South Africa (or Austrailia as Andrea wants to as well), in the Red Sea, and throughout Malaysia and Indonesia. I've never been diving outside of the Americas I only know the South Pacific from the pictures I've seen in diving magazine since teenage-hood, I can't wait. I am not sure how I'd like to get back to the US. I figure I can figure that one out on the road, there are tons of options. Did you know that you can apply for a crew position on a yacht to move rich peoples boats from one part of the world to another? Hmm perhaps.

So here are some basic trip goals:

• Stay away from things I can do another time like Paris
• Spend most of my time in lesser developed areas (nothing crazy or not enjoyable) the dollar sucks right now and you can live like a king in Asia
• Leave my comfort zone; eat new things, get the green apple splatters, figure out the hole in the ground with the two foot prints on either side. I want this to be a very visceral experience (there goes that word visceral again. I've accomplished creating buzzwords outside of work. If I start writing about the Value Proposition of this trip, you have my permission to sucker punch me in the head)
• Stay long enough in at least one place to integrate into the culture. Learn basic language ("hello", "good-bye", "beer”,” That hole in the ground is the toilet!?!?")
• Get a job. I'm not sure if this will be possible, but it would be a neat way to integrate. Perhaps a kibbutz in Israel. A diving instructor gig would rock. Plus how awesome would it be to make some scratch to supplement the trip
• Help, volunteer, give my time, my skills something to someone, someplace something that needs it. If I can't work for money, I still want to work for principle (or principal, maybe I'll teach)
• Go on the cheap. Not that I am a cheap-skate but go with the understanding that the more you spend the more likely you are to insolate yourself from what you went to experience

Well, I've got a lot of work left to do. This is like a second full time job. And right about now my full-time job has become 2 full-time jobs. I've worked 3 of the past 5 weekends and just got back from Dallas yesterday finding the time isn't easy. I'll post more shortly. (Actually I won't post this blog until everything is 100% and I yell Geronimo. I am writing these pre-departure posts for historical prospective for those of you who will choose to follow me after I tell you.)